Frenetic to Calm (Kentmere Fells)
25th October 2017
From frenetic to calm (Kentmere Fells) - from the 15th September
A recent walk into the hills that provides great views over Kentmere was full of contrasts
Having started just outside of Windermere, the area is quiet and very much overlooked by visitors. However, the views towards the southern fells of Cumbria are as stunning as they are wide. The view extends from Black Combe in the far west then, following a serrated line of mountains over Coniston, Wetherlam, Crinkle Crags, Bowfell and the Langdales, leads to the flanks of the Fairfield Horsehoe.
From this viewpoint a combination of the peace and grandeur creates a sublime tranquility; it feels like I am studying a magnificent oil painting, hung in an old, cathedral like gallery.
The journey along the track, to join the well trodden Garburn Pass (a weakness in the hills that provides a high level link between the valley of Troutbeck and Kentmere) was exceptionally still. As is often, when I walk this route, I came across Goldcrests. I am amazed how regularly (year on year) I see these minute birds along this path. They are always in the same area (around a few small trees and shrubs) and as these little birds flit from branch to branch, searching for food, they seem oblivious of my presence.
On joining the track that crosses the Garburn pass the tone of the walk changes. Where I had only the birds for company, I was now joining a long line of people. All broken up into their own groups, but a line that extended across the main ridge of the Kentmere Fells.
This route is justifiably popular as it provides both a physical challenge and an aesthetic joy, as it rolls over the high fells of the Eastern Lakes. However, to me, having just enjoyed the peace and quiet of the High Dubbs Road, I felt like I had just become a participant in some massive sponsored walk.
However, I was determined to not let this get me down, so I moderated my pace to ensure I had my own little zone as I ascended the mountains. The route is a beautiful undulating ridge, punctuated by steep sided summits, especially Ill Bell, which is guarded by rocky ramparts. However, today was characterised by a constant change between Sun and rain and like the walk, there was a contrast between busy and quiet,
Further on the walk, passing over the humble Froswick, there is a divide in the path. One taking you to another peak (Thornthwaite Beacon), the other a short cut for those wishing to complete the Kentmere Horsehoe. As can be expected, many ‘challengers’ leave out Thornthwaite Beacon, the jewel in the horseshoe as they view this whole experience as a challenge only. The aesthetic beauty and the grandeur of the moment (weather, season, colours) only incidental.
For me, however, to avoid such a fine summit, with its 3m high iconic summit cairn, with the views over to the western fells (Scafel, Great Gable, etc) and Windermere, spread out like poured quicksilver, is too much to miss. Plus now I was again on my own to enjoy the experience.
From Thornthwaite Beacon views back over the trodden ground reveals a wild, dramatic ridge of hills, framed by the shinning waters of Windermere and Morcombe Bay. Also, from here there are views down into Hayeswater and Hartsop. It is classic Lakeland at its most beautiful.
Finally I drop into Troutbeck and Hagg Gill, where the character and ‘feel’ of the walk changes again. Now there is not a soul to be seen and a deep peace spreads across the landscape. Once again there is noticeable wildlife and only the sounds of the mountains themselves (falling streams and the wind blowing through the rough grass and over crags).
Now I hear some Chiffchaffs making their last hoorah for the year, and though nearly all the Swallows have gone, I see just one lonely soul flying low over the now, brown, desiccated bracken. I will miss this miniature portent of spring, so will be looking south, with anticipation, for many months to come.
Down here, away from the steady march of ‘horseshoe challengers’ the pace of everything is slower, less frenetic. There is no purpose, overriding distraction or need other than just being in the moment. The calm found here to that being experienced above on the ridge is not only a contrast, but also an epiphany.
A recent walk into the hills that provides great views over Kentmere was full of contrasts
Having started just outside of Windermere, the area is quiet and very much overlooked by visitors. However, the views towards the southern fells of Cumbria are as stunning as they are wide. The view extends from Black Combe in the far west then, following a serrated line of mountains over Coniston, Wetherlam, Crinkle Crags, Bowfell and the Langdales, leads to the flanks of the Fairfield Horsehoe.
From this viewpoint a combination of the peace and grandeur creates a sublime tranquility; it feels like I am studying a magnificent oil painting, hung in an old, cathedral like gallery.
The journey along the track, to join the well trodden Garburn Pass (a weakness in the hills that provides a high level link between the valley of Troutbeck and Kentmere) was exceptionally still. As is often, when I walk this route, I came across Goldcrests. I am amazed how regularly (year on year) I see these minute birds along this path. They are always in the same area (around a few small trees and shrubs) and as these little birds flit from branch to branch, searching for food, they seem oblivious of my presence.
On joining the track that crosses the Garburn pass the tone of the walk changes. Where I had only the birds for company, I was now joining a long line of people. All broken up into their own groups, but a line that extended across the main ridge of the Kentmere Fells.
This route is justifiably popular as it provides both a physical challenge and an aesthetic joy, as it rolls over the high fells of the Eastern Lakes. However, to me, having just enjoyed the peace and quiet of the High Dubbs Road, I felt like I had just become a participant in some massive sponsored walk.
However, I was determined to not let this get me down, so I moderated my pace to ensure I had my own little zone as I ascended the mountains. The route is a beautiful undulating ridge, punctuated by steep sided summits, especially Ill Bell, which is guarded by rocky ramparts. However, today was characterised by a constant change between Sun and rain and like the walk, there was a contrast between busy and quiet,
Further on the walk, passing over the humble Froswick, there is a divide in the path. One taking you to another peak (Thornthwaite Beacon), the other a short cut for those wishing to complete the Kentmere Horsehoe. As can be expected, many ‘challengers’ leave out Thornthwaite Beacon, the jewel in the horseshoe as they view this whole experience as a challenge only. The aesthetic beauty and the grandeur of the moment (weather, season, colours) only incidental.
For me, however, to avoid such a fine summit, with its 3m high iconic summit cairn, with the views over to the western fells (Scafel, Great Gable, etc) and Windermere, spread out like poured quicksilver, is too much to miss. Plus now I was again on my own to enjoy the experience.
From Thornthwaite Beacon views back over the trodden ground reveals a wild, dramatic ridge of hills, framed by the shinning waters of Windermere and Morcombe Bay. Also, from here there are views down into Hayeswater and Hartsop. It is classic Lakeland at its most beautiful.
Finally I drop into Troutbeck and Hagg Gill, where the character and ‘feel’ of the walk changes again. Now there is not a soul to be seen and a deep peace spreads across the landscape. Once again there is noticeable wildlife and only the sounds of the mountains themselves (falling streams and the wind blowing through the rough grass and over crags).
Now I hear some Chiffchaffs making their last hoorah for the year, and though nearly all the Swallows have gone, I see just one lonely soul flying low over the now, brown, desiccated bracken. I will miss this miniature portent of spring, so will be looking south, with anticipation, for many months to come.
Down here, away from the steady march of ‘horseshoe challengers’ the pace of everything is slower, less frenetic. There is no purpose, overriding distraction or need other than just being in the moment. The calm found here to that being experienced above on the ridge is not only a contrast, but also an epiphany.