Ease Gill - an upside down stream
13th October 2018
Ease Gill - an upside down stream
Sat between the high volcanic mountains of the Lake District and the limestone escarpments of the Yorkshire Dales is a small slither of wild and overlooked land. This is a seemingly bleak landscape. and is rarely experienced above ground as it is mainly the preserve of cavers. This because, unseen to the eye, hidden below ground, there are an extensive network of catacombs interlinked by tunnels, subterranean streams and sumps. However, Above ground it is bare, wet and boggy.
However, this is a particularly lonely, wild and beautiful area that is full of many surprises. In particular is the course of Ease Gill. Journeying along the valley bed, that separates the whale backed hills of Gragareth and Crag Hill, the Gill makes a series of drops and falls over plateaus of bedrock.
The Ease Gill path, heading up to its source, first flows on limestone but eventually gives way to gritstone. This means the stream is often empty at the bottom, but (against normal logic) filled at the top due to the porosity difference of the base rock.
The stream is easy to follow if there hasn't been any recent rain as you can skip across rocks and clamber over small plateaus of limestone. However, if you try this route after heavy rain then there are fast flows of water and deep pools blocking your way. The wet, boggy hills around are a natural sponge and when supersaturated the slopes quickly release their ‘baggage’ in an awe inspiring and humbling way.
Today I am ok as the weather has been dry, though there is still more pools than expected. As soon as I drop into the Beck I disturb a Sparrowhawk. I see it's red/brown breast and orange tints as it glides further up stream, hugging the contours. The hawk stays with me on my journey along the river bed, lifting off only when i get too close. Though this is clearly his territory (I am certain it is a ‘he’) he shows little fear and remains only wary of me. I like to think he is my guide.
The journey up the valley is an extremely enjoyable experience, with the water gaining more character in the form of small waterfalls, however I am becoming aware the stream will inevitably end. It is at this time I cannot help but recognise I am surrounded by hills that are full of sponge like bog, that will suck and pull at my legs. Making progress will be slow, arduous and getting wet will become unavoidable if I am to reach the tops.
When, eventually, I reach the summit ridge I feel drained, but view energises me as the world opens up. The views are wide and extensive, covering much of of the northern English counties and on to the north coast of Wales.
As yet I have not seen another soul, but on the ridge was the silhouette of another, heading away from me towards the hill called Gragareth. There was a weak autumnal sun, but it's glow still penetrated into my chilled bones and gave a beautiful warming light across the hillside of Whernside.
Like the upside down nature of the water in Ease Gill, it was warmer at the top of the hills than below and there was likely more people underground than above.
Sat between the high volcanic mountains of the Lake District and the limestone escarpments of the Yorkshire Dales is a small slither of wild and overlooked land. This is a seemingly bleak landscape. and is rarely experienced above ground as it is mainly the preserve of cavers. This because, unseen to the eye, hidden below ground, there are an extensive network of catacombs interlinked by tunnels, subterranean streams and sumps. However, Above ground it is bare, wet and boggy.
However, this is a particularly lonely, wild and beautiful area that is full of many surprises. In particular is the course of Ease Gill. Journeying along the valley bed, that separates the whale backed hills of Gragareth and Crag Hill, the Gill makes a series of drops and falls over plateaus of bedrock.
The Ease Gill path, heading up to its source, first flows on limestone but eventually gives way to gritstone. This means the stream is often empty at the bottom, but (against normal logic) filled at the top due to the porosity difference of the base rock.
The stream is easy to follow if there hasn't been any recent rain as you can skip across rocks and clamber over small plateaus of limestone. However, if you try this route after heavy rain then there are fast flows of water and deep pools blocking your way. The wet, boggy hills around are a natural sponge and when supersaturated the slopes quickly release their ‘baggage’ in an awe inspiring and humbling way.
Today I am ok as the weather has been dry, though there is still more pools than expected. As soon as I drop into the Beck I disturb a Sparrowhawk. I see it's red/brown breast and orange tints as it glides further up stream, hugging the contours. The hawk stays with me on my journey along the river bed, lifting off only when i get too close. Though this is clearly his territory (I am certain it is a ‘he’) he shows little fear and remains only wary of me. I like to think he is my guide.
The journey up the valley is an extremely enjoyable experience, with the water gaining more character in the form of small waterfalls, however I am becoming aware the stream will inevitably end. It is at this time I cannot help but recognise I am surrounded by hills that are full of sponge like bog, that will suck and pull at my legs. Making progress will be slow, arduous and getting wet will become unavoidable if I am to reach the tops.
When, eventually, I reach the summit ridge I feel drained, but view energises me as the world opens up. The views are wide and extensive, covering much of of the northern English counties and on to the north coast of Wales.
As yet I have not seen another soul, but on the ridge was the silhouette of another, heading away from me towards the hill called Gragareth. There was a weak autumnal sun, but it's glow still penetrated into my chilled bones and gave a beautiful warming light across the hillside of Whernside.
Like the upside down nature of the water in Ease Gill, it was warmer at the top of the hills than below and there was likely more people underground than above.