An empty landscape.
11th January 2014
The shadows were long and though the day offered a tepid, low winter sun it was good to see colour and brightness.
Every valley in the Lake District has its own distinct quality. This can be due to its combination of mountain and lake, or created by its dramatic rocky summits peering down at you, but with Duddon it is more subtle. There are no obvious big mountains, there is no lakes, but there is a seemingly endless winding valley, that is accompanied by an energetic beck. The valley changes at every turn and the seasons seem to drift by as you head further into the hinterland. Soon you are in the heart of the lakes,but it is empty of people and soon you are in winter.
Duddon is possibly the remotest and quietest valley in the lakes, but undeniably the most beautiful.
I headed up (and down) through the boulder strewn, Tarn beck valley, crossing bog, stream and tributary valleys. The journey was wet, my boots and socks sodden almost from the off, but also joyous due to the tranquility and almost perfection of light, shade, the colour of the rocks, bracken, silver reflection off the many streams and the ever changing sky against an ever imposing skyline.
This valley is always quiet. Other valleys can be inundated with folk in peak season, but never Duddon. Why? It is purely location as it is too far around the Cumbrian Coast for people to travel. In fact this whole area of Cumbria is almost untouched by the inevitable influence of the commercial, money making world that infects the central Lakes. Here the pace is slower and people work to earn money, but to live.
After climbing a delectably wild Tarn Head Beck valley, above the reservoir of Seathwaite I eventually reach the summit of Great Carrs. The mountain, from around 2000ft was covered in a thin layer of snow and hoar frost. This forced me to take some care, plus the wind had now increased forcing me to put on more layers and having to cover my face as the skin was freezing. The final difficulty was the sudden lowering of the cloud this, combined with the whiteness of the snow, made for a flat, low contrast landscape where each part of the mountain became indistinguishable. I was cold and did not want to be forced to use map and compass, but there are some steep,drops or long detours if the wrong route is taken. Hmmm!
From Great Carrs it is a simple stroll to reach the summit of Swirl How. This tops sits astride three ridges and in better conditions the views are extensive over much of south lakes. Today was a cloud and the summit edge had to be carefully reached due to the wind and slippery surface.
Retracing my steps I now dropped to the col and headed up the eastern ridge of Grey Friar. This quiet Fell looks over Seathwaite Tarn, Duddon and would normally also look into the heartland of the Lake District, with the great fells of the Scafell range. Not today with the cloud base so low.
Not wishing to stay in the wind and cloud I headed back down, using the main western ridge of Grey Friar. The route is uncomplicated and soon I was back out of the cloud and enjoying the last of the low winter sun.
Every valley in the Lake District has its own distinct quality. This can be due to its combination of mountain and lake, or created by its dramatic rocky summits peering down at you, but with Duddon it is more subtle. There are no obvious big mountains, there is no lakes, but there is a seemingly endless winding valley, that is accompanied by an energetic beck. The valley changes at every turn and the seasons seem to drift by as you head further into the hinterland. Soon you are in the heart of the lakes,but it is empty of people and soon you are in winter.
Duddon is possibly the remotest and quietest valley in the lakes, but undeniably the most beautiful.
I headed up (and down) through the boulder strewn, Tarn beck valley, crossing bog, stream and tributary valleys. The journey was wet, my boots and socks sodden almost from the off, but also joyous due to the tranquility and almost perfection of light, shade, the colour of the rocks, bracken, silver reflection off the many streams and the ever changing sky against an ever imposing skyline.
This valley is always quiet. Other valleys can be inundated with folk in peak season, but never Duddon. Why? It is purely location as it is too far around the Cumbrian Coast for people to travel. In fact this whole area of Cumbria is almost untouched by the inevitable influence of the commercial, money making world that infects the central Lakes. Here the pace is slower and people work to earn money, but to live.
After climbing a delectably wild Tarn Head Beck valley, above the reservoir of Seathwaite I eventually reach the summit of Great Carrs. The mountain, from around 2000ft was covered in a thin layer of snow and hoar frost. This forced me to take some care, plus the wind had now increased forcing me to put on more layers and having to cover my face as the skin was freezing. The final difficulty was the sudden lowering of the cloud this, combined with the whiteness of the snow, made for a flat, low contrast landscape where each part of the mountain became indistinguishable. I was cold and did not want to be forced to use map and compass, but there are some steep,drops or long detours if the wrong route is taken. Hmmm!
From Great Carrs it is a simple stroll to reach the summit of Swirl How. This tops sits astride three ridges and in better conditions the views are extensive over much of south lakes. Today was a cloud and the summit edge had to be carefully reached due to the wind and slippery surface.
Retracing my steps I now dropped to the col and headed up the eastern ridge of Grey Friar. This quiet Fell looks over Seathwaite Tarn, Duddon and would normally also look into the heartland of the Lake District, with the great fells of the Scafell range. Not today with the cloud base so low.
Not wishing to stay in the wind and cloud I headed back down, using the main western ridge of Grey Friar. The route is uncomplicated and soon I was back out of the cloud and enjoying the last of the low winter sun.